When friction
between pin and wood hole is no longer enough to provide the necessary tension
of the strings on the classical technology seeks to restore pin’s wood hole or hammers pin of larger diameter, or a conclusion
about the impossibility of restoring the piano
Thus, the pin can be, with some approximation, of course, be regarded as a
classic bolt. And that can happen with a threaded connection, if the bolt is
screwed into the nut, which has much lower strength material? It’s had bad connection and wick friction.
I don’t beats new pins (larger diameter).I am force the turning (old) pin into the seat (wood hole) while gradually
screwing it in.
The most productive and durable (oddly
enough) was a regular corrugated
cardboard, which provides the required quality and the restoration takes
place fairly quickly, with virtually no material costs without the risk of
"disorder" of neighboring pins, which inevitably arises in the
classic "finishing" chopping. Depending on the compound, this
material allows for multiple settings for a long time operation of the
instrument. Currently under my control are dozens of tools, it is recovered by
this method and set up another issue with its restored pins should never be,
but owing to the overall poor state of the instrument and there are only spinig
more and more "foot-cloth" is already on other pins.
Technology disaster recovery chopping is quite simple, I have repeatedly led
her to various reports and papers for completeness of presentation will allow
myself to describe it in this article. I can suggest a pinblock pin
fixation restoring technique that, far from being classic one, is quite
effective. I call it a "foot wrap” technique. This technique features its cost
effectiveness and way to avoid "distuning” of the adjacent pins, which is
always the case when the pin is conventionally hammered in. First, you should loosen the
"distuning” turning pin, so that the coils at the pinblock are slack. Then
using a thin but strong screwdriver (bodkin) remove the string end out of the
turning pin. Fully unscrew the turning pin with the string kept inserted. If
you fail to do so, in some cases it will be difficult to re-tighten the string
on the turning pin. Cut a 50 by 20
mm strip out of the compact corrugated cardboard (of 2-3 mm thickness). Insert it in
the seat so that the cardboard filled half of the circle. Firmly place this
cardboard strip so that it reached the end of a seat. Force the turning pin
into the seat while gradually screwing it in. Have this done gradually in 3 or
4 steps, so as to keep the turning pin from heating. Keep screwing the turning
pin into its original ("home”) fixing zone in the pinblock. Then, very gently
with a small effort put the end of the string into the hole of the turning pin
using a screwdriver. Adjusting and fixing the turning pin until it reaches the
desired position, hold the coils of the string by a screwdriver so as to avoid
their "sprawling”. I advise you, unless you have paired turning pin installed,
while tightening both turning pins of the same string to obtain equal pitch
level. View the entire technology disaster
recovery chopping can be seen on video footage me at:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CGk3dS6dKow&feature=channel |